A Visit to the Cultural Heritage Administration

July 4^th, 2011

It was an intense day; a day when I used all my energy and was on my toes the WHOLE time. I got up and shortly afterwards headed to the bus station and took a bus to 대전천사 the government complex in Daejeon where some of the Korean gov't ministries, etc. are located, including the Cultural Heritage Administration. I timed my visit to arrive directly after lunchtime, and that part was successful. I managed to get ALL the info I knew to get, but the problem was I wanted them to just brainstorm what else might be useful and pile it on me—I mean, if I don't know if it exists how can I ask for it? So either I already know everything (doubtful) or… I came away without something that I'll find out about in 2 years and be pissed I didn’t know when I was writing the dissertation. The guy who helped me, Kim Sam-ki, was nice, though, and accommodating in regards to the stuff I knew to ask for… now I have to re-read the Cultural Property Protection Law's section on Intangible Culture, though. I feel a headache coming on, already. So I talked to Mr. Kim and got some good info from him in regards to the government's position on this and that, but then he ran out of time. I had to at least briefly talk to 엄승용 Eum Seungyong, my friend who is also the Director General of Cultural Heritage Policy at the Cultural Heritage Administration, before leaving, and waited outside his office for at least 40 minutes (knowing I was going to be later and later for the rest of my day). This chat yielded something unexpected- he asked me to serve as an outside adviser on a new government task force he's setting up called "Korean Cultural Heritage 2020"- designed to think about the future issues with cultural heritage in Korea (and head off problems in advance). I feel very honored, though later when I need to be articulate and substantive I might feel a little less excited.

Finally I left and by din of jaywalking I managed to make the next bus heading to Seoul (without even 2 minutes wait). Yes! But since I'd forgotten my exercise pants I had to run home, then run to Bongsan Talchum 봉산탈춤 class, arriving 10 minutes late (I did stop to have a 5 minute dinner—two minutes to wait while she made kimbap and 3 minutes to wolf it down- I had only had a snack at lunch time so I really needed it.) Usually 10 minutes late is no problem as 김은주 Kim Eunju comes to class at 7:15 every time, but she's in Russia or Uzbekistan teaching Bongsan Talchum and so 장용일 Jang Yongil was filling in. Everyone's afraid of him and once I was, too. But now I think he's awesome and I even have a little crush on him (when he's dancing, when he's not dancing it's too obvious that he was born in 1946, but when he's dancing he's still so amazing and lithe and powerful~!).  He's a slave driver. We had 17 people in class today, and fully 7 of them were beginners in their first two weeks—but he didn't teach them. He just told them to follow along (which meant everything was rather chaotic at the back of the room (I am at the front in the center as is the responsibility of the senior class members) and I had to be careful not to look in the wrong direction or I'd get thrown off and screw up). Actually I did great. But we worked HARD. There was almost no break time as usually the advanced students rest while Kim Eunju teaches the new students, but today we just would stop to breathe for 3 minutes and then go on. Instead of grandmother or any other parts we have been practicing after the monks, today we did 사자춤 lion dance and then did 취발이 Chuibali, which is the first time I've ever learned his dance. Cool! Jang explained a lot about Chuibali, who he is, his motivations and what his dialogue means at the beginning of the scene (he taught about 1/3 of the scene I think). The whole class was so intense, we didn't even get to meet the new people, and we had to do ALL the monologues for all the monks. We've never done that before. I don't know 5 at all. I know a tad of 6, parts of 4 (I can fake 4 if others are doing it with me) and 7 was short and I almost learned it before we did it during the 3 minute breather. (I already know 2, 3 and 8 perfectly). Oh, and this guy who did Bongsan Talchum with me in 2006 came back from the military yesterday and showed up for class today. 

Bongsan Talchum Performance (in the cold) and Wolduk's Wedding

April 23^rd, 2011

We were supposed to take KTX back to Seoul, but since 송파산대놀이 Songpa Sandae Noli practice was cancelled, we switched to the much cheaper bus. In the evening all three of us went to 남산한옥골 Namsan Hanokgol which is a completely unpopulated 한옥 hanok (traditional Korean building) village in Seoul accessible from 충무로 Chungmuro Subway Station. We were there for a performance of 봉산탈춤 Bongsan Talchum but we were early enough that we could walk around a bit in the last rays of the setting sun on the picturesque buildings.

Quite a few of the evening class students showed up, or specifically 하연, 정현, and 신마. I sat in the front row with mom and took photos on my long zoom (most of the time) and Karjam stood u p above the entire seating area and took video looking down on us. Most of the audience evaporated during the show because it was beastly cold. The performance however was totally awesome, I am so glad that mom got a chance to see that particular show because they really were just blazing.

First they performed 사상좌춤 sasangjwachum, the dance of the four Buddhist novices. Next was the dance of the eight dark-faced monks, they performed monk 1 which I never get to see (except the other day when I went to see 최창주 Choi Changju's class). Then 2, 3, 4, and 8. Of course at the end all 8 danced together. Next they did the story of 소무 Somu and 노장 Nojang, the old monk. What was special is that they really did the whole thing, starting with carrying Somu onto the stage in the litter. The shoe seller and monkey came on and did their bit and last 취발이 Chuibali came and chased of Nojang so he could take Somu for himself. Finally (of course) they did 사장춤 sajachum, the lion dance. I truly think that the two who did the lion were probably the only comfortable people there (temperature wise).

After the show when I was bowing to everyone 장용일 Jang Yongil told me that they don't care if there is just one person in the audience, they're going to give it their all, but he also thanked us for staying in the freezing temperatures.

Mom and I went to Lazy Sue's and had tea and shared a dessert before heading home.

April 24^th, 2011

Sunday was a really busy day. First we got dressed up and went to 김월덕 Kim Woldeok's wedding to 이주원 Yi Juwon. I had an immediately great impression of him, and I think that Woldeok must have been embarrassed to say that he was handsome, because she had said he wasn't yet he looked quite dashing. We took photos with the bride and then sat down to wait for the wedding, Karjam over on one side near the microphones he'd use to sing a congratulatory song, the two of us on the groom's side (better seats were available for filming Karjam and the wedding). It was a large hotel wedding where you sit at your lunch table to watch the wedding. After the ceremony (Karjam's song went off very well) we had lunch, took the group photos and all that. We also peaked in on the 폐백 pyaebaek traditional ceremony for a few minutes with Bonnie and Curtis.

Mom and Karjam went home, I headed to the 임실필봉농악 서울전수관 Imshil Pilbong Nongak Seoul Training Center where I was about 1.5 hours late to a rehearsal with 개전연 Gaejeonyeon (my 풍물 pungmul club) for our performance next weekend from 1-4. The room was packed with 19 participants all dancing and/ or playing instruments. It seems that there are three of us doing 잡색 japsaek (dancing in costume and playing the part of a specific character). I will be 화동 Hwadong , a male character who wears red robes and a red hat with pheasant feathers. I could have asked to do 소고 sogo but someone has to do japsaek and I enjoy it. It's certainly livelier than the other parts, although not a way to show off skills! In the future when my상모  sangmo is just a little better I hope to do sangmo, of course. Of course 은정/도령 Eunjeong was leading the rehearsal. She'll obviously be the 상쇠 sangsoi (꽹과리 ggwaenggwari lead player) for the performance as well.

I rushed home and then mom and I went to check out 인사동 Insadong although it was getting late and shops were rapidly closing. 

Ministry of Culture and Tourism

March 21st, 2011
I worked on the computer all morning. Wanting some statistical records from the 문화관광부 Ministry of Culture and Tourism but having noticed their building was being reconstructed/renovated or something I gave them a call to find out their new location. They are now (until 2013 when they will move to Sejong City) located near Hyehwa Stn. I also needed SNU Hospital to give me some receipts for my insurance claim, so I decided to kill two birds on the same trip to Hyehwa Stn.

Silly me, I went to the Ministry first. (Silly because I knew I was going to leave with publications and OF COURSE they're heavy). I finally found the building (interesting lobby with fancy lights made from red plastic tubing as you can see in my cell phone photo)

I asked the receptionist "where is the 자료실 information/data room?
She: "Are you going to see someone?"
Me: "No, I'm going to see some information."
I know, I'm such a smartass.

What I really wanted was the 문화예술통계 (statistical records related to culture and the arts) but the new one will –probably—come out this month. However I went home with seven other books (including one hard back that has to weigh a few pounds on its own) and the exact link to download another they didn't have a copy of at the time and a promise that they'll call me when they get the statistics records in.

Here is an example of the kinds of info I can get out of these books:

(tiny analysis: western music performances dwarf tradish (gugak) performances)

I stopped by SNU Hospital then caught the subway. I met a blind guy who had 30 minutes worth of questions he'd been saving for a Korean-speaking foreigner, apparently. Or he had more because he tried to convince me to go back to his place. ("Are you white or black?" "Is this a wedding ring?" (locking fingers with me in a –far- too familiar way) "Do you know ---name of apparently a famous school for the blind—?" "Do you like massage?" "What do you think of Japanese people and the tsunami?").

Arrived at the training center for 봉산탈춤 Bongsan Talchum class an hour early (but no one was still in any of the other offices), talked to 김은주 Kim Eunju for a few minutes, then headed to the practice room with 정현 Jeonghyeon and 하연 Hayeon. Before long we were joined by more of the crew. Everyone is getting along so well, they all want to show up early and hang out. 병우 Byeong'u had been out of town for two performances in 포항 Pohang and 경산 Gyeongsan, and he was wearing street clothes (I usually don't see him in street clothes) that would have been hip three years ago. I told him never to wear the pants again. He is very attractive in tradish clothes but looks like a putz in skinny jeans (skinny jeans are still in, but not in –that- style). The group he performs with, 미추극단 Michu Geukdan, is the same group Jeonghyeon used to be in, they do theatre and 풍물 pungmul and I'm not sure what all else. I wanted to visit the website but it's got security malware warning issues. I asked Jeonghyeon how much this next piece he's in (which will occupy him from mid April till October) will pay, and he said 10,000,000 Korean won. I guess it could be worse. It's not exactly a good wage or anything, but I had imagined worse. Yes, in Korea you can just ask someone how much they get paid. And maybe they will sidestep but they might answer, too. 병호 Byeongho showed up early, too, with his first paycheck—he had withdrawn it all so that he could hand it over to his parents in cash (symbolic, he says in the future he'll give only part of it, by bank transfer). He handed it to Jeonghyeon and Hayeon to count. So I guess it was really a day to know how much everyone earns. I didn't pay attention to what he had, though, since the new job is not arts related.

박용철 Bak Yongcheol brought one of his company members 연희 Yeonhee with him to class, and after class (pretty standard, but no 목중 Mokjung solos and we did 사자춤 lion dance instead) he talked to us all about his hopes for his piece on April 29th and our participation in the piece, particularly he wants three of our men to perform three mask dance characters (two of which are women's parts). It can't happen unless 장용일Jang Yongil (2nd ranked) approves, and he'll talk to Jang on Thursday.

I walked to the subway with Jeonghyeon and right before we got there he started telling me his opinion on professionalization in tradish performance and it was REALLY a perspective I hadn't heard before and since he's so sweet he cooperated when I pulled out my voice recorder and had him start again.

Three Days in Seoul

February 3rd, 2011
My friend Bonnie and her husband Curtis came and spent the night, so I made them dinner and we had a long Korean pop culture conversation. Otherwise I finished Photoshop on the photos from Goseong and transferred all the video to Karjam's computer and other book-keeping type tasks.

February 4th, 2011
I went to a concert at the 국악원 Gugakwon with Kimberely Hall in her capacity with the Asia Society, as the event photographer. However the seats weren't ideal for photography. Worse, though, was that the lighting in the hall was atrocious. The person I was particularly supposed to photograph, Jocelyn Clark, an American professor in Korea with amazing 가야금 gayageum skills, was lit with a spotlight straight down from above, so she had dark pits for eyes and her nose cast a shadow over her mouth—it's not pleasant for the audience to see a show lit like that, and definitely I was dissatisfied with the photos. When I met her after the show she said the lighting also made it difficult to see the strings. The rest of the show was moderately better lit, but none of it was very good.

The show itself consisted of six pieces of new music for Korean traditional instruments (usually). I have limited patience with such, in general, because for every good piece you hear quite a few bad ones. It is as if the musicians, composers, directors, etc. are all so bored with the traditional repertoire they're willing to try anything—but that doesn't mean it's good for the audience! The first piece was for five solo gayageum. No, that doesn't make sense. Why not just have one solo player do the whole thing? Why five? They alternated playing in a very unconventional way, taking the new techniques popularized by composers like 황병기 Hwang Byeonggi and then going way beyond into new territory. Chiefly, the piece was not melodic. I'm sure it must be beastly hard to play as nothing was predictable at all.

The second piece featured the 생황 saenghwang, an instrument that was described after the show by Kimberely American boyfriend Shawn as "you know, the bong," and indeed Hilary Finchum-Sung (who also attended with son Oliver), confirmed that it's filled with water. It was saenghwang, viola, cello and two violins. I honestly didn't feel that the music fell within the category of "Korean music" in any way at all, but I'm probably just being conservative. Honestly, to me, it sounded like the music to a movie montage about a person who was losing their mind and was committed to a mental hospital.


The third piece was one of the two I liked the most, it showed the promise of new compositions particulary through the interesting conversation between the 단소 danso and the 피리 piri and a lovely part where just the danso and아쟁 ajaeng were playing together.

The fourth and fifth piece were for full orchestra, the orchestra was seated in chairs (western), and wearing black and white (so western), with vaguely hanbok styling to the neckline, the women's outfits ended up looking more to me like Vietnamese clothes given that it was a slit skirt over pants. I have not much to say about either piece, they used some interesting additional instruments from western and other non-Korean areas, but the music itself didn’t captivate.



The sixth piece was in the broad genre of military music, powerful and aggressive with 나발 nabal horns, 태평소 taepyeongso and piri plus a lot of percussion. More than just the music, I enjoyed hearing the composer (who was also the conductor) talk a bit about his process before the piece began.


February 5th, 2011
I met Joji at the Electronics market and bought another voice recorder because the one I bought in August records at much too low of a volume to be useful. Even if the mic is practically in the mouth of whomever I'm interviewing. We then proceeded to the National Museum where we toured the Silk Road and Dunhuang exhibit.

At five "The Gwangdae" had a performance, the hall was crowded but 대천 Daecheon's wife helped us to find a seat. The show was fairly good.

사물놀이 samulnori, a singer, followed by 풍물 pungmul, followed by 이매 Imae from 하회별신굿탈놀이 Hahoi Byeolshin'gut Talnoli, followed by a lion's dance (the lion pretended to be a camel to great amusement), then a spinning disk performance and that was the it. The audience, especially the young children loved it. After the show I got to see everyone which was awesome. 가은 Gaeun also came to the show.

Still feel sick.

Bongsan Talchum Performance

December 17th, 2010
In the morning I went to Severance Hospital –again- and yet by the evening my ear was almost as painful as it’s been at any time during this whole long annoying infection. And the new pills he’s trying on me cost way too much- 70 bucks or so- if Karjam hadn’t insisted I wouldn’t have picked them up.

In the evening I went to 무형문화재선수회관의 풍류극장 the Pungryu Geukjang (theatre) at the Training Center for Intangible Cultural Heritage to see a performance of 봉산탈춤 Bongsan Talchum with 양은석 Yang Eunseok and two of his co-workers. Eunseok is a friend from summer 2009 at 임실필봉농악전수관 Imshil Pilbong Nongak Training Center. He’s amazingly talented, both as a drummer and notably as a singer of 민요 minyo. If only he would stop smoking! As usual the advertising materials existed for the performance but they’d done a horrible job of getting the word out. I didn’t even know about the performance until Monday, even though I’m in the building week after week. On the evening of the performance there were posters (even free ones for the guests) and bookmark-like cards to advertise the show around the building, but considering that the foot traffic is not the highest, such advertising materials need to go out in advance, as far in advance as possible (in my opinion). More directed advertising can focus on a few days before but passive advertising such as distributing cards needs to be out there so attendees at other shows can pick them up weeks in advance.

The performance began with an introduction by 박상운 Bak Sang-un and two musical performances- 대금산조 Daegeum Sanjo followed by a 해금 독주 Solo Haegeum piece. Both were performed by younger members of the group. The performance was 사상좌춤 Sa-sangjwa dance, 발목중춤 the scene of the 8 dark-faced monks (with solos by the 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 8th monk), 노장춤 the Old Monk’s dance and 사자춤 the lion dance. I video-taped the two middle pieces, since I don’t think I have the Old Monk’s dance and I’ve ruined previous performance videotapes of the dark-faced monks by being too excited about the performance and speaking the 대사 daesa monologues with the monks loud enough for the camera to pick up the sound. Either Bak Sang-un or in one case the National Human Treasure 김애선 Kim Aeseon spoke between acts, and their announcing was very rich—I will have to transcribe it (or get it transcribed) for future analysis- very rich indeed.

Friday morning dawned snowy. This is the view down our break-neck (esp. when icy) hill from our stairs. Karjam shows off his facial hair. I show off the clean hair on my head (if only I didn't get more water in my ear...)

Bongsan Talchum with an Ear Ache

November 15th, 2010
I felt mostly better during the day at home, so I decided I simply couldn’t have four days without active research (I was still trying to deal with photos and videos and the upcoming powerpoint and revise some interview questions despite the pain in my head, but I felt like I was having too much time off).

I headed out to 봉산탈춤 Bongsan Talchum class, and immediately started to feel intense pain in my head again. By the time I was halfway there I knew I wouldn’t be dancing (although I had my 한삼 hansam, 미투리 mituri slippers, loose pants and a t-shirt). It was intense. When I got to the office I just wanted to crawl into a dark hole and stay there. Instead I went to the practice room, sat next to 김은주 Kim Eunju and wrote notes about what I was seeing. I made notes about how individual students were doing, something I usually only see incidentally, some are so stiff, others are quite good. Kim Eunju spent quite a bit of time firming up the pronunciation and enunciation of the new monologues we learned while 장용일 Jang Yongil was running class. “If you don’t say it precisely, no one will hear you through the mask.” She pointed out (several times in different ways). During breaks Kim Eunju would talk and joke and make people who were late doing the basic exercises, unlike Jang who would mostly just sit and wait for everyone to take their break. Kim Eunju asked for more hansam movement during monk 4’s part, and worked with everyone on the final part where we all dance our own solos for 10 jangdan at the same time as the others dance something different, then do a collective dance at the end. She also reviewed the 사자춤 sajachum with us.

I felt horrible on the walk back to the subway, almost like I was caught in slow-motion where every moment was painful, but after I got home and warmed up I started to feel better. I went to bed happy because my ear has started to express large amounts of goop. I think that’s a sign of healing. I want to believe it is.

I finally made an excerpt video of Bongsan Talchum from the festival, it’s uploaded here: link.

Cell photos: Kim Eunju (pink shirt) demonstrates while the class watches, and the class practicing.

Learning Sajachum!

November 1st, 2010
The day centered on 봉산탈춤 Bongsan Talchum practice, I went early, with Karjam. 장용일 Jang Yongil would be teaching us again, and he’d said anyone who came at six could learn 사자춤 Sajachum (lion dance). When we got to the building there was a performance starting at 6, so I told Karjam to meet me in the practice room at 7. Unfortunately Jang was not in the practice room yet, although 정현 Jeonghyeon showed up after a few minutes (to practice singing, not sajachum). Eventually I got tired of waiting and went to find Jang, who was in the office. He taught sajachum for about half an hour before it was time to start regular class. 병호 Byeongho and the other guy that Jang has initiated coming to practice dancing (not the guy who was drumming last Thursday) are a sajachum team- Byeongho is the front of the lion (the shorter person is the front). I followed along with the dance as well as I could, it’s really interesting without holding the mask out at arm’s length, I think it might be too hard for me with the mask (although I hate to admit that).

Karjam arrived and sat on the floor in the back and filmed, hopefully getting a lot of Jang’s more abrasive teaching style (compared to 김은주 Kim Eunju) as well as the twinkle in his eye. During class we worked through each of the monk parts, in order, spending extra time on the 대사 daesa (monologue) for monk 4. It’s really frustratingly hard to remember, I have no real idea what it means except for one passage that Jang explained to me. After we finished monk 8 we went back to practicing sajachum but it was only a few minutes before class ended and we were all exhausted.

Karjam and I had a very late dinner in a restaurant on the way home. I hope to post a video with sajachum in performance and a bit of footage from our practice so that you can get an idea what I’m talking about. Maybe even some video from the entire evening of practice. I even interviewed a couple people at the end, so it’s almost like a mini-documentary.

New Tibetan Videos on Youtube for your Viewing Pleasure!

October 27th, 2010
As I still feel fairly weak, so fortunately I didn’t have to leave the house except for a short trip to the bakery (Wing!) and the nearest market. I worked on my presentation for the EPIK (English Program in Korea) orientation on Exploring Korea, uploaded three of Karjam’s songs to Youtube (Nighttime in Lhasa, Tserjih Tsomo and A Nomad Boy from Amdo, all recorded 9/25 in Andong, the 9/30 performance videos will get uploaded eventually). Please visit the videos and comment on them (pretty please).

경진 Kyungjin came for dinner, I made lots of veggie side dishes including really awesome mushrooms and super duper soup.

October 28th, 2010
In the morning I woke up early and traveled across town to present to the EPIK teachers. The presentation went fine, except the group was so varied, it was hard to hit the right note (some people have been in Korea a few years, most 4 months then about 30% of them arrived a week ago, so how do you talk about exploring Korea?). At any rate there was something new in my info for everyone, of that I am certain.

Came home and Karjam and I went to 경희대 Kyunghee University to see Desang, Iwan and Koong who were attending a function there.

After that I headed to 봉산탈춤 Bongsan Talchum class. Today class was taught by 장용일 Jang Yongil again. It’s awesome when he teaches, but I was walking to class promising Georgy that I would take it easy, maybe just sit and watch. But I can’t do that when Jang is teaching! I had to go full out (and both knees killed, plus I felt pretty sick, so worn out Karjam came to meet me at the bus stop and walk me home). He didn’t talk a lot today and ended class 15 minutes early, but he did teach us really steadily. We worked particularly on 5먹중 (the fifth dark faced monk’s solo) and on 사상좌춤 (the dance of the four Sangjwa), but I mostly avoided his eagle eye when I screwed up. He also agreed to drive me to 양주 Yangju after the performance on Saturday (awesome!) and promised to teach us all the 사자춤 (lion dance) on Monday, when he’ll be teaching us again. The lion dance is usually for men, but I’m dying to try it. He also worked with us on our 대사 daesa and our entrances. He insists we need to know the daesa for the fourth monk by Monday. We had two extra people today, Jang’s students who he brought along. One of them is learning to drum to accompany mask dancing, today Jang would often start drumming with the other guy shadowing him then Jang would stop and the other guy would continue to drum on his own. Sometimes he just instructed him from the start without demonstrating, and he was constantly turning to him and saying “it speeds up at the end of this rhythmic cycle” and such. He made a few mistakes and went too fast a few times, but overall he did pretty well.